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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest shop securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.